Mortlach 12 Year Old - The Wee Witchie
I’ve had this bottle, unopened, in my cupboard for a little while now. This frosty day at the start of a new year felt like the perfect opportunity to pull it out and give it a try. It’s apparent from the moment you open the box that Mortlach want you to think of this whisky as more refined, a cut above (in much the same way as Macallan). Typically, I find this off-putting but there is something about the angular, square-shouldered shape of this bottle that I find intriguing, not least the name - The Wee Witchie. Let’s get into it!
Bottle
This Mortlach bottle design is truly unique. It is rectangular both in profile and in plan. The big expanse of flat glass on the front of the bottle is beautiful. And the base has a clever angular design that follows the Mortlach logo at the top of the bottle. With the exception of the Johnnie Walker bottles (interestingly also owned by Diageo) it is pretty much the only rectangular bottle. And it is an absolute beauty!
Colour
A lovely burnished colour but as is typical with these whiskies - it does have a little caramel colouring added for consistency.
Nose - Rich and full-bodied with dried fruits, dark toffee, and a hint of sherry sweetness. There’s also a subtle meaty, umami-like note that Mortlach is known for - apparently, this comes from the 2.81 times distillation!
Palate - A bold and complex palate with toffee, dark chocolate, and dried fruits (raisins, figs). The signature meaty and savoury character comes through, balanced by cinnamon, nutmeg, and a touch of citrus zest. Some oak and sherried sweetness round out the profile and there is just a hint of tobacco too.
Finish - Long, warming, and slightly dry, with lingering oak spice, dark caramel, and a touch of pepper. A faint smokiness and the Mortlach meaty richness persists.
Overall
Much of the flavour profile of this interesting dram is attributed to the unique 2.81 times it is distilled. In reality, this means that it is made from a combination of spirits taken from combinations of Mortlach’s 6 stills (one of which is famously called the “wee witchie” still) but it does result in a pretty unique tasting dram.
However, at close to £70 for a bottle of the distillery’s entry expression, it is asking a lot of whisky enthusiasts. I’m really pleased to have enjoyed this bottle and I’d recommend anyone gives it a go if they haven’t already, but I will struggle to suggest anyone buys a bottle at that price.
Available from Master of Malt for around £68